Baliem Valley of Wamena - Dani Tribes - West Papua Travel Guide

High up in the mountains of central Papua at an altitude of 1,600 meters above sea level, hemmed in by steep green mountain walls, lies the stunningly beautiful Baliem valley, home of the Dani tribe.

The Baliem Valley, also spelled Balim Valley and sometimes known as the Grand Valley, of the highlands of Western New Guinea, is occupied by the Dani people. The main town in the valley is Wamena. Baliem valley is 72 km. long, and 15 km to 31 km wide in places. It is cut by the Baliem river, which has its source in the northern Trikora mountain, cascading into the Grand Valley, to meander down and further rushing south dropping 1,500 meters to become a large muddy river that slowly empties into the Arafura Sea.

The Baliem Valley was once dubbed Shangri La and it is easy to see why. The Valley is incredibly lush and fertile and is surrounded on all sides by towering peaks of 2,500 to 3,000 metres. The fertility is such that the valley has been farmed for 9,000 years but it was only discovered by westerners in 1938! There are three mains tribes inhabiting the Baliem Valley: The Dani in the base, the Lani to the west and the Yali in the south-east. Each tribe has a distinct culture. One sure and interesting way to distinguish between the tribes is from the Koteka, or penis gourd, sported by the male members. The men of each tribe tend to the growing of the gourds with the three tribes each cultivating a different style. The Dani use a long, thin Koteka, the Lani sport a medium sized, wide cannon-like gourd, and the Yali wear the longest of all.

The Dani

Entering Dani territory involves a journey into a deeper reality.

The inevitable pig-feast on arrival is your rite of passage into their unique culture for an engrossing a four or five hour intense experience. You will find yourself in a simple, traditional compound surrounded by fully greased and painted Dani tribes-people wearing their ceremonial best.

The whole elaborate affair is deeply spiritual, far more than a photo-session can ever capture. Here you will be warmly greeted by the amazing Chief Yali, Kelly's adoptive father who is legendary amongst the Dani for his kindness, generosity and skills in the art of co-operation and avoiding conflict. With this unique and privileged connection you will receive the full weight of Dani hospitality.

The Lani

Like the Dani, the Lani are expert farmers utilising a highly effective and efficient irrigation system to produce abundant crops of Sweet Potatoes (Ubi), Tobacco, Beans, Taro, Spinach, Sugar Cane and Bananas. Much of the Lani lands lie in a beautiful oasis interspersed with checkerboard patterned sweet potato gardens. The Lani are more stockily built than the medium-bodied Dani and their lands are more densely populated. They tend to congregate in largish villages rather than the small compounds which dominate Dani territory.

The weather in the Valley is predominantly sunny and trekking along the river amidst the terraced farmlands and wondrous forests is a trekker's paradise. Trails are usually clear and maintained as local people travel them and this makes the trekking pretty comfortable.

The Yali

The Yali tribe lives high up along the valley ridges in the Jayawijaya mountains. The land here is rugged and thinly populated. The tribes-people live in wooden huts with roofs made of tree-bark and they are grouped into small compounds. A vegetable garden and dense rainforest will surround each compound.

Trekking in the Yali area is more strenuous than in the lower reaches of the Valley but it is perfect for the fit trekker who wants to experience truly virgin rainforest and the unique people who live amidst it.

Only recently emerged from the Stone Age, the Dani are known as the “gentle warriors”. With their simple tools of stone and bone, they nonetheless, managed to sculpt green fields that hug the hills, where they grow root crops, and raise pigs. They have also built outposts and lookout towers to defend their valley from hostile tribes.

Because of the fertile soil and their agricultural skills, the Dani together with the sub-tribes of the Yali and the Lani, are, therefore, the most populous in Papua, living scattered in small communities near their gardens among the steep mountain slopes. Today, they also cultivate bananas, taro and yams, ginger, tobacco and cucumbers.

The men's and women's huts (locally called the honai) have thick thatched roofs, which keep the huts cool during the day and warm during the cold nights.

As far as the outside world was concerned, the discovery of the Baliem Valley and the unexpected presence of its large agricultural population was made by Richard Archbold’s third zoological expedition to New Guinea in 1938. On 21 June an aerial reconnaissance flight southwards from Hollandia (now Jayapura) found what the expedition called the 'Grand Valley'. Since then the valley has gradually been opened up to a limited amount of tourism.

 

In summary, The Baliem Valley will provide a never to be forgotten experience. The inhabitants of the valley are essentially peace-loving agrarians who welcome visitors wholeheartedly.

Posted in: Papua